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Topic: Bikes in the Alps (Read 217 times)

quicksilver
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Bikes in the Alps
« Thread Started on Oct 16, 2009, 3:07pm »

DAY 1
Trevor & Margaret and John & Marian had been planning this trip for six months our destination Seefeld in Tirol in Austria and on Saturday 13th June 2009 at 05:30hrs the radio alarm bursts into life and the big day had arrived. The Aiken's and Campbell's traded their Swift caravans for two BMW motorcycles and in good time arrived at the Stena Terminal in Belfast and joined our travelling companions, two other non caravanning couples also riding BMW's motorcycles. After a very smooth crossing to Stranraer we were able to make good progress down the boring A75 the only highlight was an oncoming car spinning out of control on one of the roundabouts around Dumfries. Our Destination was the ferry port at Newcastle and the DFDS overnight Ferry to Ijmuiden in Holland. Having a little time in hand time we left the busy A69 to explore the countryside around Hadrian's Wall, an area that we would return to on another trip in a few weeks time. The ferry from Newcastle was fully booked and it took a long time to board in very warm sunshine passports had to be produced twice and were safely stored in our overnight bag or at least that's what I thought when we arrived in our cabin Margaret's passport was missing, this led to small family row and a declaration by Margaret of "Never Again" thankfully her Passport was handed into the reception area. All four couples visited the Buffet restaurant, one of three restaurants on board and had a lovely meal the restaurant can be pre booked and is good value at €20 for all you can eat, we settled down to enjoy the evenings entertainment.

Waiting on the Ferry
[image]

In the Queue

Very warm

DAY 2
We woke to bright sunshine and a look out the porthole gave a view of a large wind farm off the Dutch coast this was followed by an armada of ships waiting to be taken to port. We disembarked in Ijmuiden around 10:30am and of course it started to cloud over it wasn't long before a few spits of rain turned into a downpour this was our longest days riding around 370 miles to Mosbach in Germany so wetsuits were the dress of the day. We pushed on only stopping every 90 minuets or about 130 miles for fuel and to grab a bite to eat. Never having driven on German motorways before the speed of some of the overtaking vehicles was surprising if not suicidal, visibility was poor with all the spray, and we had set a pace between 80mph -90mph which was quick enough for the conditions but we were being overtaken by cars travelling around 120mph+. We found it strange that all the Motorway exits were signposted to Ashfarts it must be a very large city!!!! The bikes were equipped with back to back radios which meant that we could talk to each other but there wasn't much chat only the essential information that we were turning off at the next exit or stopping for fuel. Our thoughts turned to were we were going to have lunch and we turned off the main road into a small town riding on cobbled streets required concentration, the group tried to park as close to the main square containing the local restaurants so we could keep an eye on the bikes this idea was thwarted by the local traffic warden dressed in Gestapo Uniform, meals were left on the table as we returned to the bikes in fear of the ‘final solution’ actually she was quite friendly and spoke perfect English and we were shown were to park. Thankfully the last 100 miles were covered in dry conditions and arriving at Mosbach was a welcome change from the Motorway. Our Hotel 'Lamm' in Mosbach turned out to be one of the best hotels we stayed in, large rooms and the food provided was excellent. The hotel looked Tudor in appearance as did most of the town. We had a walked around before dinner and took in some of the sights, plaques on buildings showed dates around 1942.

The Goldsmiths Mosbach.

Can't wait for a drink.

I think he made beer.

DAY 3
The day started bright and sunny and with 250 miles to cover it was back on the motorway and it wasn't long before it started raining again however it only lasted a few hours and we were back into warm sunshine. Stopping short of the Austrian border for fuel and to purchase a Vignette (Motorway Tax) which must be placed on the windscreen this cost €11:10 for 2 months. As we continued assured that we were legal we got our first view of the Alps, John and I commented that it looked like the Mournes when driving towards Newcastle. Soon we were into Austria and travelling towards the Fern Pass, our first mountain road. It was quite busy which meant lots of overtaking and the group got well spread out. We regrouped at the end of the pass and continued towards Seefeld. Arriving at our hotel 'Viktoria' we parked the bikes up in the garage and were shown our rooms each room had a theme John and Marion had a French theme ours had a doll and pram in it one of the other couples got a four poster bed not sure what the theme of that room was!!. Nice views of the Alps to the rear of the hotel. It wasn't long before we made our way to the bar for a well deserved Pint and something to eat. Walking around the town it was obvious that a lot of the hotels were closed. Seefeld is a ski resort and the summer months are off season.

Regrouped in Austria.

Our Hotel.

DAY 4
Today we would visit Neuschwanstein Castle near Fussen just across the border in Germany it was the home of king Ludwig II and all the Disney Castles are based on its design. We decided to take the 10 minute bus ride up to the Castle rather than face a 40 minute walk. Lots of tourists visit this attraction and Escorted tours of the castle are in all languages and we had a 30 minute wait to get on to the English speaking tour. Construction of the castle started in 1869 and to date only 14 of the many rooms have been finished. We spent most of the day around the Castle and only completed around 100 miles that day. Good views of other nearby castles.

Rain, what rain?

Neuschwanstine Castle.

DAY 5
Another bright start and today we would try and ride over at least three mountain passes, the previous week they had been closed by snow. The flat Austrian valley's gave way to a nice winding road through the out of season ski resorts of Langenfeld and Zolden the road became increasingly steep and there were first signs of snow lying at the side of the road we were heading for the Timmelsjoch pass 2509 meters at the top. Stopping for a photo opportunity we were surprised to be looking down onto the top of clouds in the valley. Onward and upward to the highest point and a nice restaurant were Coffee and Apple Strudel were a welcome snack. Thankfully the road was clear of snow but the wall of snow at the side of the road was around 10 foot high. Off again and we crossed the Italian border and a toll cost €11per bike for using the pass. From here it was all downhill and we were soon into very warn Italian sunshine it was soon lunchtime and a cafe at the side of the road proved a good find, we tucked into a meals of pizza or pasta and lots of water as the temperatures rose into the thirties. Starting off again we headed for Sant Antonio the small town at the bottom of the Stelvio Pass made famous by the 1969 Italian Job film and more recently Jeremy Clarkson and the crew of Top Gear, 48 blind hairpin bends to the top and travelling two up made some of the bends challenging, keeping the revs up and staying in first gear was the way to negotiate them. We met a camper van stopped near the bottom which had seen better days, smoke was billowing from the front wheels, the driver was spraying the brakes with a fire extinguisher, further up and we passed a line of pedal cycles making slow but steady progress towards the top, rather them than me. Eventually reaching the top we were blown away by the views and the scenery and at 2757 meters it looked a long way down, a couple of hotels and coffee shops at the top and a few stalls selling tat. We were amused to see a German motorcyclist driving into the car park with a small dog sitting in a bag on the petrol tank. After refreshments it was down the other side and after a short distance turned right past a border guard. We were at the top of the Umbrail Pass a part gravel road taking us into Switzerland. High mountains gave way to switz meadows and cows with bells round their necks, again the temperatures rose into the thirty's. Its an expensive country but one I would like revisit. Back to Italian the border and the guards were checking Passports but thankfully all the bikes were waved through good job we had remembered to bring our Passports this time, even though they weren’t checked. Motorways brought us back into Austria the only hold up having to stop and wait for an hour watching around 100 Motorcycle Police and Marshalls pass ahead of the Tour of Switzerland cycle race. Back to the Hotel for a well deserved pint or two.

Car park Timmelsjoch Pass 2509 meters.

Stelvio Pass 2757 meters.

Doggy Passenger.

« Last Edit: Nov 16, 2009, 2:56pm by quicksilver »

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Bikes in the Alps part 2
« Reply #1 on Oct 16, 2009, 3:37pm »

DAY 6
A day off the bikes and after breakfast we made our way to Seefeld train station and took the 30 minute train ride to Innsbruck, a very busy city set in a valley and surrounded by snow capped mountains. The group decided to take the City Bus Tour the best way to see the sights, We got off at the Olympic Ski Jump bus stop, and made our way up through a small but shaded park to the bottom of the jump. A couple of euros got us on the ski lift myself and Marian were able to get a senior concession rate. Soon we were at the top of the jump and standing in a very expensive restaurant all the seats were taken or reserved so we had a look at were the hero's start their slide towards what looks like certain death. Making our way down to the less expensive restaurant at the landing area, we had lunch, all was going to well then came shout from the direction of the ladies “ Help I am locked in the toilet” trust Margaret to get to loo with the dodgy door lock she was released from her temporary prison by three burly men and a Euro coin. Looking at the landing area it must be noted that any miscalculation by the skiers lands them in the local graveyard which is right at the end of the landing area. Back on the tour bus and we stop in an industrial area a quick enquiry reveals that it is the bus driver’s tea break and the tour would continue in 30 minutes so a short walk to the Old Town area and as the name suggests we are treated to nice shops in cobbled streets, the local market and old Austrian architecture. A short walk to the train station and the hottest train journey ever back to Seefeld as the air conditioning failed in our carriage. This was our last night in Seefeld we decided that a hearty meal in one of the local restaurants would be the best way to end our stay in Seefeld.

Innsbruck.

Ski Jump.

Long way down.

DAY 7
This was the start of our journey home and having loaded up the bikes and checked the oil and tyres we were off. Our destination was Le Tolly in France and it would take us to the Vogues Mountains and the Black Forest. A quick check on the Sat Nav said we were travelling west and heading for a tunnel through the mountains I can’t remember the name of it but it was 8.4 km long and very warm inside. The traffic became increasingly heavy and it became a bit of a chore travelling around the side of Lake Constance towards Friedrichshafen. Within a few hours we were in France and our first toll Motorway the traffic had thinned out so we could make good progress we turned of the Motorway and onto side roads and with more and more trees we headed into the Vogues Mountains and the start of the Black Forest. Lovely winding roads and hairpin bends meant that parts of the bike that should never touch the ground were scraping the tarmac we met a convoy of vintage cars coming the other way doing what we were doing, enjoying the sweeping bends and brief views into the wooded valleys below. Again we turned of the main route onto narrower roads and we were started to meet motorcycles coming the other way, this got scary if not dangerous and concentration was required to stay on your own side of the road going round the blind bends. We eventually reached our destination Le Tolly and after checking into our Hotel the bikes were parked in the underground barn which doubled as a garage, we were surprised to see a Wild Boar which had just been slaughtered been carried through the barn and placed in the back of a Land Rover. From our room window we watched deer roam the gardens of the hotel and decided that we would have Venison for dinner. After a lovely meal of Venison the owner of the Hotel called last orders at the bar at 10.30pm. still quite early for us and as we didn’t want to leave the bar she asked us to turn the lights off in the Hotel when we were going to bed. This proved to be a very bad idea as the last thing I remember was John on his hands and knees at the top of the stairs and Marian trying to find light switches.

Dinner.

Vogues Mountains.

DAY 8
All feeling a bit rough we set of through the French countryside, warm sunshine on our backs and good roads made the experience more bearable, typical French villages and war memorials dotted along our route. We were heading back into Germany and to our hotel at Lahnsetin on the river Rhine. Back on the Motorways for most of the 185 mile journey. We eventually crossed the Rhine on one of the many bridges I was surprised at the amount of river traffic travelling up and down on this Iconic river. After dinner we decided on an early night as a early start was required to make the ferry in Holland the next day.

No Photos.

DAY 9
Up bright and early and after the panniers were packed we were off the first stop any petrol station that was open on a Sunday morning. Having filled our petrol tanks to the brim we were back on traffic free Motorways and towards the Dutch border, storm clouds gathered and eventually we drove through torrential rain for a few miles. Marian found that her Boots were not as waterproof as she thought a quick rummage in our luggage found two matching plastic bags from our local butcher which she put over her boots to keep the water out. We crossed the Dutch border and found that all of Holland had decided to come out for a Sunday drive what a difference compared to the German motorways. Arriving back at the port of Ijmuiden we were drawn to the smell of fish and chips on the quayside, what a selection of fish on sale anything from Cod to Squid cooked or raw, with chips. Within a few hours the bikes were secured on the boat and we settled down for the evenings entertainment.

Wet feet.

DAY 10
The boat docked in Newcastle at 09.00am, this was the last day of our holiday and it involved a 170 mile dash from Newcastle to Stranraer in order to catch the 14.40pm ferry to Belfast. Speeds were kept reasonable on the A69 with the threat of speed cameras wanting to take our picture. Rather than suffer the boredom of the A75. The A712 road through the Galloway forest was the preferred route in fact most Sat Nav’s will take you this way rather than travelling the main A75. Lunch was purchased at The Smithy Tea Room & Craft Shop, High Street New Galloway, a hidden gem in a lovely setting, with time ticking on and anxious to be on time for the ferry we had no time to enjoy the surroundings. All arrived safely at Stranraer and we began to reflect on the 2200 miles that we had travelled, scenery viewed and places visited would we ever do it again? Yes! The Boats are already booked for 2010.

« Last Edit: Nov 16, 2009, 3:01pm by quicksilver »

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Re: Bikes in the Alps
« Reply #2 on Nov 2, 2009, 11:31pm »

Great write up and some wonderful views. Almost makes me want to buy a bike, could I get one like yours for £750 or so?

You've got to hand it to Eddie the Eagle - he deserves a medal for even thinking about getting on the ski jump.

Thanks for posting

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